Keeping and breeding poison dart frogs in captivity is a fascinating and rewarding hobby. They are also just as safe to keep as other tropical amphibians, as once in captivity dart frogs lose their ability to make poison. Their wide variety of vivid colors and behavior patterns provides ample selection to choose from, with many enthusiasts ending up with extensive collections. It is import to remember that even though they lose their toxicity in captivity handling should be avoided, as this can cause stress and their delicate skin can easily be damaged. They should therefore be seen as display animals, with the vivariums in which they are kept creating the center piece for any room – lushly planted with bromeliads and beautiful orchids, with the ‘jewels of the rainforest’ hopping around inside.
If you are thinking about keeping dart frogs for the first time these top 10 secrets to success will start you off in the right direction. The guide has been broken down into three parts as follows;
Part 1 – Choosing what to keep:
- What to keep
- Where to buy
- Housing
Part 2 – Getting the micro-climate right:
- Vivarium location
- Lighting
- Heating
- Misting
- Food
Part 3 – Vivarium design:
- Interior design:
- Substrate
- Background
- Hiding places
- Plants
- Further research
Part 1 – Choosing what to keep:


2. Where to buy: While some pet stores stock dart frogs most hobbyists buy their frogs from one of three sources;
- specialist dart frog breeders
- trade shows
- directly from each other through forums and local hobbyist groups
Out of the three, buying from a breeder is the easiest option for someone just starting with the hobby. Many breeders have great online stores where frogs can be bought and then shipped, and questions answered.
Wild caught specimens should not be purchased. Most dart frogs are listed as endangered species, and even if this was not the case wild caught frogs often carry parasites and other diseases which can shorten their lifespan and infect other frogs in your collection.

Read the next in this series: Part 2 – Getting the micro-climate right
Photo credit: Cliff